Skin care is self care

Skin care is self care

Dear friends… this is my Hero’s Journey. If you just want the TLDR, scroll down to that header. Otherwise, read on!

I used to have terrible, horrible, no-good, very-bad skin, struggling with acne from high school through my early career days as a 30-something. My face was a constant source of shame, low self-esteem, and feelings of unworthiness. However, after nearly a decade of experimentation and slow-but-steady equilibration, I am finally cracking my “skin code”. I am not just zit-free (mostly, no one’s perfect), but my skin feels more even, better toned, and just… glowy! Strangers and friends ask about my skin regimen with a satisfying frequency, and I confidently rock my makeup-free look every durned day. But getting here was not a simple matter of just slapping on some Proactiv and chugging alkaline water. It has been a saga fit for the Marvel Cinematic Universe, complete with alien villains and sick bulletproof onesies. Sorry sorry, only kidding about those onesies. But seriously people, it has been its own kind of adventure (anyone who’s had similar challenges will understand). And this adventure I will now share!

First and foremost… let’s talk about stress! Reducing stress truly is the foundation of a healthy mind-body, and beautiful skin. I promise. Everyone’s happy place is different, but for me it means that the majority of my relationships, activities, and life situation is aligned to my values. That sentence would have sounded unattainable and cheesy to Me-Five-Years-Ago, but Me-Today feels effing awesome! Some major waypoints on the journey to my happy place have been:

  • Heroically getting into a PhD program against all odds, and then quitting it after realizing I wasn’t cut out for a life of minutiae, benchwork, and masochism
  • Finding and marrying my one true love who sees, loves, and supports me unconditionally 4 lyfe
  • Investing in the joyous creativity of making my own jewelry during covid-times
  • Deciding it’s ok to stay off the crazy train when it comes to certain family members
  • A career change to teaching after an abrupt and unceremonious layoff from the relentless human meatgrinder of VC-funded tech

This “happy place journey” is still ongoing – through changes in life situation and lifestyle, I have cycled through many different routines of physical activity, from rock climbing, to heavy weights, to crossfit, to trail running, and now finally to daily walking, yoga and pilates. However, I definitely still try new things and see what works, and pay attention to when I am no longer psyched. I am also working towards a daily meditation practice, which has been a challenge.

As a rule though, I have found that saying “no” to things and people that drain me, and saying “yes” to things and people that “fill my cup” makes me feel supported and has given me confidence to continue on this path. It has allowed me to finally admit to myself that I want a life filled with love, and that I deserve that life. Everyone does! And so, I encourage you to simply start exploring… What physical activities do you love? What would you look forward to doing almost every day? Notice your body posture throughout your day – are there times you hunch over or tense up? When do you feel most at ease? Who/what/where in your life causes you stress? And start saying “yes” to that which serves you, and “no” to that which doesn’t.

Overall diet is an absolute foundation. I have always eaten pretty clean overall, but after many years of raw-vegan this, and dairy-free that, I no longer obsess over grams of macronutrients or overly-strict observances. I just stick to Michael Pollan’s pithy dictum of “eat food, not too much, mostly plants”. However, two key villains stand out: sugar, and coffee. Sugar (and I mean processed sugar, as in baked goods and soda-pop) is the absolute worst thing I can feed my skin, hands down. After clearing it from my diet, I now notice immediately when I indulge – zits, dull congested skin, blah. Sadly, coffee is right after processed sugar. Like many others, I have had a near-religious relationship with coffee for most of my adult life. However, after reading about some of the badness that comes with coffee (pesticides, etc.) I decided to give the coffee-free lifestyle a try. After much trial-and-error with various types of alternative caffeine, I discovered that in fact a guarana capsule in the morning gave me more energy for longer, and I no longer had a miniature emotional breakdown at 2pm every day. It was the coffee, and not the caffeine, that for whatever reason starts a chain reaction that causes late-afternoon sluggishness and snacking and sugar-craving. Without coffee, I feel much more tuned into my physical body, I have zero uncontrollable food cravings, and I sleep better at night. Interestingly, as I begin to explore Ayurveda, I have learned that coffee exacerbates my pitta and vata doshas. I invite you to try eliminating one or both of these elements for just one week and see what happens, it could make a big difference!

After trying myriad different products, regimens, and rituals, my first big breakthrough after de-stressing and diet came with chemical peels. During covid, I discovered Canada’s finest: XO Treatment Room. Annie, its mad-scientist-in-charge, will mail you ingredients and guide you through an at-home chemical peel via FaceTime. She is no-nonsense, super knowledgeable, and gets it done for a very reasonable price. She is also a veritable fount of knowledge, e.g. Annie is the one who advised me to wash my face twice (not once!) a day, and told me it was probably safe to skip the expensive-yet-useless eye creams. Chemical peels were a wonderful option for me as my primary goals at the time were to eliminate breakouts and reduce hyperpigmentation. I was also working from home so I could handle the downtime and what I lovingly refer to as “croissant face”... that vulnerable week-long period where your top layer of dermis flakes off to reveal the baby-soft fresh new face underneath.

After probably 5 of these peels over the course of a year, I began to explore other options with less downtime. My goals were also changing as my skin evolved – my pigmentation had evened out, breakouts reduced, and I was now focused on the anti-aging end of the spectrum. I was turned on to medispa treatments, and I now get the Hollywood Laser Peel (Spectra Peel) about twice a quarter at Oasis Medspa. This is a no-downtime procedure that reduces hyperpigmentation, scarring, acne, and fine lines. I look glowy and refreshed afterwards. My esthetician also got me started on a modest amount of preventive botox. The latest addition is the Scarlet RF - Next Generation RF Microneedling, which I’ve settled into about once a quarter. If you’re a “beauty is pain” person, this is for you. This treatment delivers radio frequencies into the skin via microneedling, stimulating collagen production. Yes it hurts, but it is also totally worth it. This is the ONE AND ONLY treatment that my husband notices when I come home. My face is downright plump and juicy after this.

As for my daily regimen, I like to approach it more like a self-care ritual. I look forward to it as a mini-break from the day, an opportunity to chillax and check in with myself. Most of my products are Versed these days – I have found this brand to be effective and affordable. However, for better or worse I am also a total product junkie, continuously introducing new products and practices to see how they work out. So, I’m not terribly devoted to any one product. For all products, I use them on my face, neck and decolletage, being sure to get the area under my earlobes and my entire ear. I also work any leftover product onto the back of my neck. If I still have product left on my hands after that, I work it onto my hands and arms. Specifics are below – I’m not sponsored, I just love these products!

Patient reader, here is your TLDR!

Voila my morning routine:

  • Wash. I wash with Cerave Foaming Facial Cleanser. I wash twice a day, and need something very gentle.
  • LED light therapy. I use Dr. Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite, red or purple cycle (or both) depending on what I think my skin needs. I know this mask is tres spendy (I got it as a gift!). I have also had great results using the Solawave wand, and would still be using that had I not gotten this sick Freddy mask as a gift.
  • Eye masque. I swear by the Derma-E Vitamin C hydrogel patches. I have tried many many different ones, and these are by far the best, with real de-puffing and smoothing action. I can get puffy in the morning if I’ve over-imbibed, and I also have somewhat pronounced dark circles that are just hereditary. These caffeinated puppies noticeably reduce both.
  • Exfoliating toner. I love Versed’s Weekend Glow Toner. Sometimes, I use this all over my body if I’m feeling dull.
  • Vitamin C. I use Mad Hippie’s Vitamin C serum. I’ve used many different brands, and this one wins based on clean formulation, it’s impressive list of actives, and just how it feels 🙂
  • Moisturizer. I use Versed’s Weekend Glow Daily Brightening Moisturizer. Even though I am in a dry climate, it keeps my skin moisturized and fresh under my sunscreen.
  • Sunscreen. I just love EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46. It has niacinamide to help work on any dark spots during the day, and doesn’t make my face greasy or pasty or dry. It also doesn’t cross-react with any of my other products to rub off in little dry product rolls. I have gone through phases where I use only physical sunscreens but frankly they all leave me a little pasty, and this is what my esthetician recommends. I also want the highest-possible SPF as I live in NM where sunshine is a true and constant fact of life.
  • Luminzer. The Versed Glow Drops in Sheer Golden are my faerie magick. I mix 2 drops with my sunscreen – these really do add that je ne sais quois, glowy dewy it-girl sparkle and glow.

Voila my nighttime ritual:

I am on a 4-day skin cycling regimen (this is a fancy way of saying I alternate use of various products to avoid skin irritation). I have sensitive skin, and skin cycling has allowed me to incorporate retinol without drying out. Definitely give it a shot, and tailor your regimen for your needs! For me Day 1 is Vitamin A. Day 2, I dermaplane and do acid exfoliation. Day 3 is retinol. I moisturize all days as a final step, but Day 4 is moisturize-only. The cycling applies only to my nighttime routine; I keep the same morning routine all days of the cycle.

  • Wash. I wash with Cerave Foaming Facial Cleanser in the evenings as well.
  • Vitamin A serum. For skin cycling Day 1, step 1, I use Mad Hippie’s Super A Serum. I love that this has many forms and sources of Vitamin A (which helps regenerate skin), and it also includes retinol and the retinol-mimicking bakuchiol. The only other Vitamin A products I have tried are prescription-strength, so I can’t honestly compare. However, I love this brand’s clean formulations and commitment to the planet.
  • Dermaplaning. For skin cycling Day 2, step 1, I use Versed’s Instant Gratification dermaplane tool. Ya’ll, the dermaplaning craze is 100% real. Try it, don’t be scared, and no just shaving your face is not the same at all. The key here is not to go nuts once you realize how amazing this is. For Real: Only dermaplane your cheeks, chin, and mustachio. Be gentle and controlled, otherwise you’ll cut yourself. And do NOT get too close to your undereyes, or do your decollete. In moments of experimental haze, I have tried both with disastrous results.
  • Exfoliating acid masque. For skin cycling Day 2, step 2, I use Versed’s Doctor’s Visit Instant Resurfacing Mask. It is totally bomb, and even your partner who “doesn’t notice” your botox and filler will finally comment on your born-again glow.
  • Retinol (face). For skin cycling Day 3, step 1, I use Versed’s Press Restart Gentle Retinol Serum. This stuff truly is gentle, I have tried many retinol and retinoid (and bakuchiol) formulations, this one does not irritate my skin at all. I also only use it every 4 days, as I’ve also incorporated Vitamin A with retinol into my Day 1 regimen.
  • Retinol (body). For skin cycling Day 3, step 1, I use Versed’s Press Restart Retinol Body Lotion. Genius. I avoid the temptation to use this more than once every 4 days because I live in the land of unrelenting unrepenting sunshine (for which I am eternally grateful).
  • Retinol (eyes). For skin cycling Day 3 & 4, I gently tap this lovely Smooth Landing Advanced Retinoid Balm from Versed on after cleansing. As Annie from XO room advised me, most eye treatments are B.S. However, I use this mostly on superstition to prevent fine lines and wrinkles.
  • Under-eye serum. I have fairly sensitive eyes that react to the slightest provocation. However, Skinceuticals AOX Eye Gel truly is a miracle and I use this once or twice a week. I noticed a difference the actual first day I used it, people. Yes it is spendy, and yes XO’s Annie is wrong about this one.
  • Moisturizer. For all skin cycling days, my last step is moisturizer. I have two options, which I choose depending on how my skin feels. Usually, I use Versed’s Skin Soak. However, If my skin is looking a bit congested or if I have a zit, I’ll just use Solawave’s Activating Serum. I started using this incredible hyaluronic when I had the Solawave wand, and I was so addicted I keep using it even though I no longer have the wand. I see on the Solawave website they have reformulated this serum, and I have not tried their new stuff. I’m sad to see the blue tansy go, which I adore. If my skin feels extra dry, I’ll use both products (serum first). 
  • Lashes. As I mentioned earlier, I have pretty sensitive eyes that don’t tolerate a lot of product around them. However, I have been using Pixi’s Large Lash serum with great results for a few months now! I use this nearly every night.
  • I sleep with an anti-bacterial pillowcase. I have Silvon, I’m sure others would work well too. I wash it weekly.

In the spirit of ritualized self-love, I also indulge in occasional face masques for targeted treatment or sheer luxuriation:

  • Clay masques for clarification. I adore the cult classic Aztec Secret (my own formulation with ¼ tsp of cayenne pepper and Bragg’s live apple cider vinegar instead of water brings blood flow to the skin’s surface… not for the faint of heart, but I love the sparkling clarity of my skin after this!).
  • Sheet masques for hydration. Andalou sheet masques, and whatever freebies I can squeeze out of my esthetician are my faves. I'll layer an eye masque underneath for extra pampering, and massage with a cold roller if I have that on hand.

Enjoy!

Back to blog